Gina Pullover Vest

OMG it's another Tits O'Toole sweater! Or maybe it's just my protruding bazooms, one or the other. Anyway I am modeling the new Plymouth Gina wool vest that I made from the new irresistable yarn I got from Three Black Sheep Shoppe in Signal Mountain.

Here's my pattern:

Gina Pullover Vest

5 skeins of  Plymouth Gina, 100% wool, for size 38-40 bust. Size 7, 24” circular needles. For other sizes see note at the end of pattern. Gauge: 5st to the inch.

A small amount of  contrasting light worsted weight yarn for edge and ribbing.

Note: Always slip the first stitch of every row. This makes a selvedge edge which facilitates picking up stitches and sewing the shoulder seams.

Skp = slip one stitch, knit two stitches together, pass the slipped stitch over those stitches.

Kfb = knit into the front and back of one stitch, making two.

 

Center back chevron:

Using a crochet provisional cast on,

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aqWfea8oOH8

 cast on 59 stitches.

Row 1, slip 1^st stitch, kfb, k26, skp, k26, kfb, k1.

Row 2, slip 1st stitch, knit to end

Repeat these two rows until desired length, usually one entire skein of Gina wool.

Square off top of chevron:

Attach new skein at edge of front and begin decreases as follows:

Row 1, slip 1^st stitch, k2tog, k26, skp, k26, k2tog, k1.

Row 2, slip 1st stitch, knit to end

Continue to decrease at each edge and in the center until only 5 stitches remain, bind off.

Square off bottom of chevron:

Unzip provisional crochet chain from one side of chevron and put stitches on needle, 29 stitches.

Begin decreases:

Row 1, slip 1^st stitch, k2tog, knit until last three stitches, k2tog, k1.

Row 2, slip 1st stitch, knit to end

Continue to decrease at each edge until three stitches remain, skp. Pull end through last stitch.

Repeat by unzipping crochet chain from the other side, 30 sts, and decrease as for first side. Set aside.

Center front chevron:

Make as for back chevron until one skein is used up. Do not square off top of chevron, but instead put live stitches on waste yarn.

Square off bottom of chevron as for back.

Back Side panel: From the front, attach new yarn and pick up one stitch in each of the selvedge edge stitches, (about 53st more or less).

Row 1 (back side) slip 1^st stitch, knit to end

Row 2 (front side) slip 1^st stitch, knit to end, then cast on about 16 stitches, enough to make 69sts total.

Repeat row 1 for 22 rows, or 11 ridges or 11 selvedge chains. It’s all the same amount.

Armhole: From the top of the shoulder, bind off 30 stitches for armhole.

Continue to knit in pattern to desired width, or 12 more rows, 6 ridges or 6 selvedge chains at underarm. Hint: measure from center of chevron, considering that as half the width of back. Put remaining 39st on waste yarn.

Repeat this side panel on the other side of the back chevron.

Front Side panel: From the front, attach new yarn and pick up one stitch in each of the selvedge edge stitches, (about 53st more or less).

Row 1 (back side) slip 1^st stitch, knit to end

Row 2 (front side) slip 1^st stitch, knit to end, then cast on 16  or more stitches, enough to make 69sts total. Continue as for back side panels, but keep the finished 39 stitches on needle, joining to the front side with three needle bind off.  Repeat for the other side of front panel, again joining it to the back panel with three needle bind off.

 

Shoulders: Sew shoulder seams front to back using mattress stitch.

 

Edge finishing: With contrasting yarn, pick up one stitch along bottom edge of vest and join in the round. Purl all around and then loosely cast off. For armhole, do as for hem, but you might like to pull the cable through one side, between stitches as you purl around and readjust to complete the edge. Or switch to dpns.

 

Neck ribbing: Beginning at the left edge of the back chevron, pick up stitches along shoulder cast on edge, slip live stitches from front onto needle, pick up second shoulder stitches, and then pick up back stitches, join in the round. Since the neckline is angled, decreases will be made at each angle change, twice on back and three times on front.

Round 1: Place marker at beginning of round. K1p1, all around until two stitches before marker. K2tog.

Round 2:  K1, k2tog. K1,p1 until two stitches before angle change on front, k2tog, k1, k2 tog. K1p1 to two stitches before center front stitch, k2tog, k1, k2tog. K1,p1 until two stitches before angle change on front, k2tog, k1, k2 tog. Continue in ribbing until desired length, about 1.5 inches. Bind off loosely.

 

For alternate sizes: The chevrons can be made with fewer or more stitches and that will determine the finished size. For example: Size 34, cast on 49 stitches, and knit fewer rows for the side panels. For size 44, cast on 69 stitches and knit a few more rows for the side panels. Measure your bust measurement and allow one inch of ease. Garter stitch is so expandable and adjustable.

 

Printable version here:

 Gina Pullover Vest
 

Lime Swing

Here's my friend Ellen modeling my new knit, Lime Swing. She just happened to walk into Knitting yesterday wearing the perfect matching T-shirt, so I grabbed the sweater and put it on her for photos! Fit her like a dream, and I almost gave her the thing.

I am still in love with the Easy Way concept and find that the things I knit from this straight-line method are fast and fun and adjustable. The only thing I don't like is that mostly they are bottom up. I like top down knitting, so I decided to make this one from the top down.
Here's the pattern, size 38,  top down, size 8 needles, worsted weight yarn...
My new way to do this is with a crochet provisional cast on, but it is not necessary. I just like it because I know there will be no ridge at the neck when I put the stitches on for the collar band. And no seam at the shoulder. But if you just want to cast on, you can always pick up stitches for the collar and fronts from the top (cast on) edge of the back. Or use some other preferred provisional cast on.

Cast on 56 stitches and knit garter straight for 6.5". It is important to slip the first stitch of every row to facilitate picking up shoulder/sleeve/collar stitches later.
When you have knit the back 'yoke', put the stitches on hold (or a second circular needle) and join two new balls of yarn and pick up 18 stitches at each shoulder ( the cast on stitches) to begin the fronts. (Leave 20 stitches unknit for the neck)
Knit in garter for 6.5" and then you are ready to cast on the underarm stitches, 24 for each armhole. There will be fiddling, since you will have to decide when to cut one ball of yarn as you join the fronts to the back.  You will have 18+24+56+24+18 stitches total. Keep in garter for a few more rows, like 6 ridges or 12 rows. Switch to pattern stitch.

The pattern stitch I used is garter rib: row 1 (right side) : K. row 2: K2, P2
I increased 2 sts ( m1)every six or so rows along both edges of the center front starting 12 ridges down from the 'shoulder'. (aren't I specific? hahaha) Actually it was one stitch in from the edge.

Knit until you like the length. I did the sleeves next, picking up 54 sts in each of the edge chains of the shoulder ( not the underarm stitches). Knit in pattern for 3 inches or so, (I knit it flat, not in the round this time)  and then begin to decrease every 9th chain ( still keeping the slip first stitch routine.) I got as far as 44 stitches before I ran out of yarn. You could do the sleeves in the round and decide on your own decreases. The stitch pulls in and looks as tho the sleeves are super skinny, but blocking brings everything to its correct size.
Collar: From the front: Pick up one stitch from each edge chain, turn and knit the first row (you're on the back side so it is purled on the front) and then knit in garter ridge pattern for about 3.5". Sew underarm to sleeve, and sew the rest of sleeve. Done and ready for wet blocking. It took me four days to make it....super easy super fast.
  
The armhole is squared off at the bottom, which are the cast on 24 mentioned above.
 The yarn is Fibra Natura Sensational by Universal Yarn, 100% Merino, 90 yards per skein, and this took every inch of ten skeins.



X marks the m1 increases along the front edge. I wanted the fronts to come closer to meeting so the increases continue down to the hem.

Six am Photoshoot

I love this new pullover!
I started this contiguous shoulder design, Driftwood, on Sunday and finished it last night. It was soooooo easy and fast. And it fits like a dream without blocking! The yarn is Malabrigo Rios for the dark stripe and Zara merino for the light minty green stripe, size 8US needles, and 7US for the neckline and ribbing. So soft and totally wearable next to the skin, and the springiness makes my usually sloppy stockinette look like it was machine knit.
The pattern is perfect for the brand new knitter and could be your very first sweater. Top down, no sewing, and lovely gentle increases at the hip.
 The increases begin at the back neck and shoulder and when the required amount is achieved, then the markers are moved one stitch over and the increases are then done at just the sleeve.

Here it is as it developed into a set-in looking sleeve.
I admit I changed the increases from make one left and/or make one right to just k1fb which worked out just as well.

This set-in sleeve look is what all the fuss is about.
 The neckline and front placket are picked up later, and I did change mine from plain stockinette meant to roll, to ribbing and garter ribbing which I prefer to the rolling edges of the pattern.
I love the fact that two increases at the back neckline look like little darts. They keep the neck close while at the same time adding more stitches to the back. Genius.

I chose these colors because I had only three skeins of the minty green Zara and only two of the Malabrigo. I hoped all the way through that I would have enough to finish the sweater. The original showed a color change at the hip and wrist, so I dug out some orphan Debbie Bliss Cashmerino DK in aqua to do the last rounds.


 At knitting yesterday, I had my pal Judy take photos of me in the new Aran Cardigan, as per your request.

 It's curvy in the just the right way.
The rains continue, and I am just loving staying in and watching Netflix. I am turning into a hermit. ha!

Knitalong : Sewing it up

For effect I am showing you the mattress seam with really contrasting  yarn. The video shows you how to do this stitch in depth.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhkQKqz2r3M or the short wordless version, my  fave:
http://vimeo.com/35725038
But as you can see in the second photo, pulling both ends of the blue yarn make it disappear. Such a great trick. I first learned this, not in knitting but when I worked for an upholsterer and had to sew many pillows shut. It is much easier to do on a sweater, really.

 I didn't use blue yarn for the real sewing however. Hint: sew the underarm (those 12 bound off stitches) to the to the body part first, and then finish the sleeve, going from the sleeve end back to the underarm. Then do the side seams from the hem back up. Bury the loose ends, of course. I use a crochet hook rather than a tapestry needle and just pull the ends through the back loops of the purls, a few times.

Why did I choose this pattern, when I never like to sew seams? Because this was how I learned to do my first sweater as a 15 year old, and I guess it was worth it to learn.  The part I really like was NOT HAVING TO SEW THE SLEEVE CAP. I would much rather pick up the sleeve than sew it in, as there is no lumpy seam.
And you may have noticed that the directions required no shaping, that is, no decreasing or increasing every 4-6 rows. Not a bit of it. And yet it all fits nicely anyway. Imagine that.
Running low on yarn made me do a half sleeve, which looks just right being untapered. If I had done this with enough yarn to make long sleeves, I would have decreased on the rest of the sleeve to make it fit the narrower part of the arm. My narrow parts need to be emphasized.
I got the necessary width and length in the blocking, thanks to the stretchiness of garter stitch. When I first started to knit I thought garter looked like it was inside out. Now I find it to be a truly elegant fabric. Plus it hides most of my knitting inconsistencies.
I am not all that thrilled with the neckline split, but it does work with a shirt underneath, which is no doubt how I will wear this. Altho the yarn is not merino, it isn't very itchy, but it is too warm for summer and not warm enough to wear alone in the winter, hence, something under it will do.

Sorry about the tiny bit of cleavage...not my style.







I must always include a stupid back view, mustn't I?
A word about how I knit...all day. It has been raining for days, and the laundry is done, and Dave was washing the downstairs floors (and waxing!!) so I was stuck upstairs or in my studio and just had plenty of time to knit. It is not a race.
Also I knit with the yarn in my left hand and that does make it faster. See this video: http://vimeo.com/4961980

PS. This will be our next project.

Knitalong: The Front, Shoulders and Sleeves

When we last spoke, you and I had finished the back of the pullover. I had a cocktail, did you?
One reader emailed me about the front neck split, asking if she had to knit it that way. Of course not! That's why I said that the pattern was merely a suggestion. I did the split, but now I think it would have been just as nice to make the front the same as the back, exactly, or to do a few less rows to lower the neck in front.
It's your choice. If you decide to make the neckline split, here's how. Knit up to the armhole (measure it against the finished back piece), and bind off the same number of stitches as the back, 12 for each armhole. Then count the remaining center stitches, find the center one or two, depending on your stitch count, knit to and bind off the center stitch/es and attach a second skein of yarn. Work both sides of the front on the needles at the same time, being careful to always knit both sides to the end before leaving the scene. This will make it easier to know where you left off, so both sides end up the same length. If this is all too much, then just knit the front exactly like the back.
Now we are ready to do the three needle bind off at the shoulders.  As you recall I asked you to put the shoulder stitches on waste yarn, and now they are live stitches ready to put on the needles, right sides together, wrong side toward you. You will need another needle for this technique.
Rather than write a lengthy explanation, here's a lovely silent video showing you how to do it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpGz8Q-LAKs


Above right is the finished bound off shoulder seam, inside view, and next is the shoulder seam from the right side. The shoulder stitches are nice and firmly attached to each other and now you are ready to do the sleeves.
You will recall that I asked you to slip the first stitch of every row. This makes a nice chain edge. Now is when that chain edge is really handy. You will be picking up and knitting as shown in another silent video http://vimeo.com/6434026

How many stitches will you pick up? The chain edge count will equal the amount you pick up. Somewhere between 48-60. I picked up 53 stitches for a 13" finished armhole and wrote it down to make sure the second sleeve was the same as the first. Just pick up the straight part of the arm, not the bound off stitches. See photo.
Then knit the sleeve in straight garter for as long as you like, or as much yarn as remains. I knew I would not have enough yarn for a full 17-18" sleeve, so I bound off when I saw the end was near.
That's it. Both sleeves are knit and bound off and it's time to block it to size. We'll sew it up after it's blocked.
To make it simple I decided to steam block it instead of dunking it in the sink, squeezing it out and fiddling with it.
Steam blocking requires a sheet of cotton for a press cloth, some water to soak it in, and an iron. A thick towel and a guest bed or big ironing surface might be useful too. I used my padded worktable, and a big heavy towel. Placing the pullover on the table, wrong side up, measure the dimensions of the body and decide if you need it wider or longer. My 80 stitch cast on was a little shy of the 20 inches I was hoping for, so I wanted to coax the knitting to meet that dimension.





Using the dampened press cloth and a hot iron, gently glide the iron over the press cloth topped knitting listening for the hissing of steam. It is the steam that will do the trick. Remove the press cloth and coax the knitting to the desired dimensions. Use stainless pins to maintain the shape.



I went for 20.5" in width and pulled the length a bit too. I made the armholes larger too, but essentially nothing was stretched too far, just RELAXED a bit. If you do make the neckline split, it should be pinned in placed, or it will stretched out too far. After steaming, allow it to cool and dry before seaming...tomorrow. Feel free to ask me anything about this process. Email Me.

Knitalong : Casting On

Here's the pattern for our knitalong. Sorta.

When I look at a pattern like this, I like some parts and don't like others. For one thing, the model is flat chested so I know this won't look the same on my body. And the sleeves are very long and untapered and I know they will look like they belong to a gorilla if I knit them the same way. Essentially, this pattern is merely a SUGGESTION.

I will keep the stitch pattern, garter, knitting every row, and I will keep the underarm body length, 12", since I foolishly suggested we would only need four skeins of the Stitch Nation Washable Ewe... And we'll have to see how long the sleeves will become, depending on the amount of yarn available when we get there.

So to begin, the hardest part, we have to decide what size our body is. Need a tape measure? Or we can just admit what size our bra is. Admit, ha! There is lots to fudge here, because we are using the garter stitch which is stretchy and forgiving. It will glide over the bumps in front and slip back to normal for our slimmer parts.

What about that other disagreeable topic, GAUGE?
We all knit differently so I am going to pick a number out of the air and call it 4 stitches per inch on garter stitch on size 8US needles.
Knowing from experience that all will work out fine after the knitting is blocked gives me confidence to jump in and declare the amount of stitches to cast on. But first...

Here's a teeny bit of math.
Bust size 44 x 4st = 176 divided in half =88. Cast on 88 stitches.
Bust size 42 x 4st = 168 divided in half =84. Cast on 84 stitches
Bust size 40 x 4st = 160 divided in half =80. Cast on 80 stitches.
Bust size 38 x 4st = 152 divided in half =76. Cast on 76 stitches.
Bust size 36 x 4st = 144 divided in half =72. Cast on 72 stitches.
Bust size 34... ahhh, those were the days.... Cast on 68 stitches...etc etc etc
The diagram tells us where we are heading. I like to draw out a diagram for all my designs, in case I forget what the plan was, which I sometimes do. It's a good idea to make notes of what your stitch count is for each section...if you want to. That vertical line at the top is for the front, so ignore that until we get to the front knitting.
I am making this pullover in pieces, back side first, even tho I usually (nowadays) knit in the round. I want to do this because it makes measuring easier.
I will be showing how to sew a mattress stitch seam, and how to do a three needle bind off seam at the shoulders, both important and simple techniques.
Here's the back I knit yesterday. It took most of the day. Relax. I'll be giving you all weekend to get this far. Breathe, then KNIT!









I would like to stress strongly suggest that you begin every row by slipping the first stitch, purlwise. This is a good habit which it took a lifetime to discover and now that I have, it makes all the difference in so many ways. Here's how the edges looks when the first stitch has been slipped. A nice neat chain is formed, and one can count the chains, and double the number to know how many rows have been knit. We will not have to do any row counting for this project. Sigh of relief.
The chain edge forms a sweet line from the front too, and later we will be discovering that the line disappears in the seaming but is our guide at the same time, a neat trick. Here's a great video that shows three ways to do this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_odMnlGeH-o


OK. Let's begin. Cast on the number of stitches for your size and knit up to the arm hole, or 12".
At the 12" length we will bind off 12 stitches, knit along the width of the middle and then bind off 12 stitches at the other end. Cut the yarn, leaving a four inch tail, way more than necessary, but I don't want you to feel insecure.
I counted in 12 stitches on the left side and placed a marker, so when I came to it I could stop knitting and start binding off.
At this point we are going to have to decide how deep to make the armhole. The diagram states 6 and a half inches, but that's only for the medium sizes. If you are making a smaller size you might want to knit only 5 3/4" or if you are making a larger size you might want to knit 7 inches. YOU decide. It will all work out anyway. Seriously.
To knit the center back/armhole part you will need to attach the yarn you just cut off. I use a crochet hook (something you will use often, so find one and keep it handy) and pull the yarn through several loops of the purl stitches and leave it hanging. No knots are needed.
Knit the depth of your armhole and then you are ready to do the back neck/shoulders. Good thing we have the diagram as this all sounds way confusing without it. When your armhole length is knit it is time to do the shoulders. Here's a general guideline of what to knit and what to bind off. The back neck stitches are bound off and the shoulder stitches are kept on the needles for three more rows.
In other words, knit 11/12/13/16 stitches, depending on your size, bind off the middle stitches,which should have some relation to the width of your back neck, in this diagram it is 6", and then knit the remaining 11/12/13/16 stitches for the other shoulder.
Then knit one shoulder at a time, three more rows, break yarn, attach it to the other shoulder stitches and knit three more rows. Don't bind off, just slip some waste yarn through those stitches and have a cocktail. You're done with the back!