Knitalong : Casting On

Here's the pattern for our knitalong. Sorta.

When I look at a pattern like this, I like some parts and don't like others. For one thing, the model is flat chested so I know this won't look the same on my body. And the sleeves are very long and untapered and I know they will look like they belong to a gorilla if I knit them the same way. Essentially, this pattern is merely a SUGGESTION.

I will keep the stitch pattern, garter, knitting every row, and I will keep the underarm body length, 12", since I foolishly suggested we would only need four skeins of the Stitch Nation Washable Ewe... And we'll have to see how long the sleeves will become, depending on the amount of yarn available when we get there.

So to begin, the hardest part, we have to decide what size our body is. Need a tape measure? Or we can just admit what size our bra is. Admit, ha! There is lots to fudge here, because we are using the garter stitch which is stretchy and forgiving. It will glide over the bumps in front and slip back to normal for our slimmer parts.

What about that other disagreeable topic, GAUGE?
We all knit differently so I am going to pick a number out of the air and call it 4 stitches per inch on garter stitch on size 8US needles.
Knowing from experience that all will work out fine after the knitting is blocked gives me confidence to jump in and declare the amount of stitches to cast on. But first...

Here's a teeny bit of math.
Bust size 44 x 4st = 176 divided in half =88. Cast on 88 stitches.
Bust size 42 x 4st = 168 divided in half =84. Cast on 84 stitches
Bust size 40 x 4st = 160 divided in half =80. Cast on 80 stitches.
Bust size 38 x 4st = 152 divided in half =76. Cast on 76 stitches.
Bust size 36 x 4st = 144 divided in half =72. Cast on 72 stitches.
Bust size 34... ahhh, those were the days.... Cast on 68 stitches...etc etc etc
The diagram tells us where we are heading. I like to draw out a diagram for all my designs, in case I forget what the plan was, which I sometimes do. It's a good idea to make notes of what your stitch count is for each section...if you want to. That vertical line at the top is for the front, so ignore that until we get to the front knitting.
I am making this pullover in pieces, back side first, even tho I usually (nowadays) knit in the round. I want to do this because it makes measuring easier.
I will be showing how to sew a mattress stitch seam, and how to do a three needle bind off seam at the shoulders, both important and simple techniques.
Here's the back I knit yesterday. It took most of the day. Relax. I'll be giving you all weekend to get this far. Breathe, then KNIT!









I would like to stress strongly suggest that you begin every row by slipping the first stitch, purlwise. This is a good habit which it took a lifetime to discover and now that I have, it makes all the difference in so many ways. Here's how the edges looks when the first stitch has been slipped. A nice neat chain is formed, and one can count the chains, and double the number to know how many rows have been knit. We will not have to do any row counting for this project. Sigh of relief.
The chain edge forms a sweet line from the front too, and later we will be discovering that the line disappears in the seaming but is our guide at the same time, a neat trick. Here's a great video that shows three ways to do this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_odMnlGeH-o


OK. Let's begin. Cast on the number of stitches for your size and knit up to the arm hole, or 12".
At the 12" length we will bind off 12 stitches, knit along the width of the middle and then bind off 12 stitches at the other end. Cut the yarn, leaving a four inch tail, way more than necessary, but I don't want you to feel insecure.
I counted in 12 stitches on the left side and placed a marker, so when I came to it I could stop knitting and start binding off.
At this point we are going to have to decide how deep to make the armhole. The diagram states 6 and a half inches, but that's only for the medium sizes. If you are making a smaller size you might want to knit only 5 3/4" or if you are making a larger size you might want to knit 7 inches. YOU decide. It will all work out anyway. Seriously.
To knit the center back/armhole part you will need to attach the yarn you just cut off. I use a crochet hook (something you will use often, so find one and keep it handy) and pull the yarn through several loops of the purl stitches and leave it hanging. No knots are needed.
Knit the depth of your armhole and then you are ready to do the back neck/shoulders. Good thing we have the diagram as this all sounds way confusing without it. When your armhole length is knit it is time to do the shoulders. Here's a general guideline of what to knit and what to bind off. The back neck stitches are bound off and the shoulder stitches are kept on the needles for three more rows.
In other words, knit 11/12/13/16 stitches, depending on your size, bind off the middle stitches,which should have some relation to the width of your back neck, in this diagram it is 6", and then knit the remaining 11/12/13/16 stitches for the other shoulder.
Then knit one shoulder at a time, three more rows, break yarn, attach it to the other shoulder stitches and knit three more rows. Don't bind off, just slip some waste yarn through those stitches and have a cocktail. You're done with the back!