Fibermania

Process Pledge: Fused Piecing

Fused applique was where it all began for me, but after a time I wanted to make some quilts that looked like they were pieced.

I thought: Can I fuse them? And the answer was: Why not?

Here's how it is done.

Beginning with already fused fabrics, cut some strips. Keep the fused side down. Choose two contrasting colors, one light and one darker.

 Cut a square-ish piece from one of the strips and from the other cut some very narrow strips.

Apply the narrow strips to the square and fuse lightly in place. In this case I am fusing directly onto a teflon pressing sheet. You may also fuse onto the release paper leftover from the Wonder-Under (no fusible remains on the paper). After the piece has been fused, it peels up easily. It can be pressed many times onto this pressing sheet without losing its ability to stick.

Next cut a strip from the contrasting fabric. Trim it to the size of the block, either before or after pressing it with the iron. Overlap the edge of the square with the fabric strip, just a bit, not a complete 1/4".
Continue to add and trim the strip until the center block is surrounded. The order in which the strip is added is your choice.

This is the reverse side of the fabric, which shows the uneven amount of fusible on the darker piece. I didn't even notice that when I started. It still works since the lighter fabric has been fused to the darker piece. It still works, since the lighter piece was completely covered with fusible. Should there be a need to add more fusible where there is none, just cut a piece of Wonder-Under the size needed, placing it on the bare spot and then.....cover the whole area to be fused with a protective sheet of release paper, so no fusible from the remaining areas gets on the iron.

 All four sides are now attached. Trim the excess strip and this part is finished. Notice the skinny 'seam allowance' visible on the lighter strip. No need to worry, it will stay fused.

The next border is done in a similar fashion with thin strips being added before applying the next round.

And here is the finished block.

Neat and quickly done, with no trips to the sewing machine. I likey!

Some have asked about fraying. Since the fabric is cut and fused  (no paper remaining on the back, ever!!)and carefully handled  (mostly)  fraying just does not pose a problem. However, and this is a big HOWEVER...I am using hand dyed cottons here which are different than commercial cottons (solids or prints) in several ways.
1. No surface coating of any kind, like Perma-Press, Wash and Wear, or Easy Care. These do not wash out and do prevent perfect fusing.
2. With commercial cottons, the printing is on one side and the back is not the same, so when it is cut, the edges sometimes are not nice.
3. Commercial cottons are often a looser weave than the fabric I use/dye. The looser weaves are more likely to fray sometime down the road.
4. It is possible to fuse commercial cottons and use them in quilts, as long as some care is taken to cover the edges with fabrics that don't fray, like closely woven hand dyes.

Finally, I am making quilts for the wall, not functional quilts for the bed, lap or crib. It's a whole different ball game.

PS. To make the rest of the quilt, make more blocks, overlapping as if to seam until the top is fully assembled. Do NOT fuse this to another sheet of fabric, but instead fuse it directly to a smooth surfaced cotton batting, such as Hobbs Heirloom Cotton (80/20) or Fairfield Cotton Classic. Fusible batting is not necessary, and neither is spray glue. No basting is required to quilt it either. I mean, REALLY.