Q&A

1. Do you use just one layer of batting?

Yes, and usually it is Hobbs Heirloom Cotton 80/20. I like it because it can take a lot of ironing and still maintain it's loft. Also it is smooth and doesn't show through when silk is fused directly to it.

2. Where did you get your Iron on a stick?

I buy mine wholesale from my notions distributor, but you can order them from lotsa places. I would do an internet search. They are also easy to find at any large quilt show. I'll bet your local quilt store has a source for you to obtain one.

3. In triumph of tulips you seem to have pre printed pattern in the background. How can I use pattern material with wonder under? I would like to have some pattern in my things.

See this blog entry: http://fibermania.blogspot.com/2005/03/its-fabric-not-paint-or-printed-fabric.html

I make up my own patterned fabric, using shapes cut from fabric and fused into a design.

4. The black cruciform with the clouds at the bottom, was that dyed or painted? Pieced?

That is a painting by Georgia O'Keefe, not a quilt. You are not the first to ask however. The first couple of sentences explain that I think my red quilt looks like her painting. We must slow down and read, not just look at the pictures, ;-)

5. I got some wonder under on my ironing board, on the right side of the material, and on the iron. I asked wonderunder and tried their stuff and it didn't work. Any simple thoughts? Besides be more careful in the future!

I use Dritz Iron Off available at most JoAnn's. Also I have a habit of always working with the fused side down. It is difficult to see the fusing on the lighter colors, but always feel and test before fusing. Slow down...see above.

6. You say most of your things are applique , what is the base/the background?

There is no base or background. The top is assembled on the release paper of the Wonder-Under and when it is completed, it is fused directly to batting. Fusing also makes my quilts easier to quilt, since the tops are fused directly to the batting and no basting is required.

7. I assume with the release paper, when you are fusing, you do it on the sticky not the smooth side of the paper.

There is no right or wrong side of the paper. Either side works, as long as there is no fusible left on it.

8. I had some frayed edges where I cut with the rotary blade. Your's don't seem to ever have those. Any suggestions for me?

Use a sharper blade. Of course I am cutting directly into the fabric and there is never any paper on the back. Never cut the fabric with the paper attached. Always remove the paper first and cut your shapes with a sharp scissor or rotary cutter. Also the tighter the weave of your fabric, the less likely it will be to fray. You can always clean it up before you fuse it.

9. What materials can you fuse and which not?

You can fuse anything that will not melt at the high temperature of the iron. Not every fabric will stay stuck, due to the factory coatings however.

10. Do you spend days just fusing and have the fused material all ready to select from for a new project ?

Not days. But sometimes if there is a lot of new fabric that needs to be used in the project at hand, it will take several hours.
Since I started this new series, I am working with lots of neutrals and had to first dye them and then fuse them so it took quite a while. Now I have oodles of them, and plenty for the next ten quilts or so.
I have some fused fabrics that are years and years old. It never gets stale and is always usable.
I am a committed fuser and that is just one of the things that I take the time to do. In the end it is worth the effort, because I can make 'seams' instantly and should I change my mind, I can just peel the fabrics apart rather than using a seam ripper. In the end, most people can't tell the quilt isn't pieced, and think my applique is so perfect. O how I laff!

Thanks for your questions, and happy fusing!